Billaud-Simon Blanchots Chablis Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2023

This comes from a miniscule, o.18 ha parcel full of white stones at the top of Les Blanchots by Servin. Olivier prefers to vinify this in stainless steel to “keep its laciness”, and it is a delicate beauty. It smells of a summer garden kissed with dew. The palate fills up with citrus zest and Asian pear. A suspicion of tannin helps focus the exuberantly refreshing finish. Classy. 95 points Christy Canterbury MW for the Tim Atkin Report

Billaud-Simon's Blanchot is the most supple and elegant wine of the range, with fruit aromas including lemon peel, high-toned white peach and a distinctive floral cast. Soft and supple, a delicate scent of white blossoms develops on the palate. Despite the finesse, there is a persistence here as well. The grapes come from 0.18ha of old vines that look over Montée de Tonnerre, with which it shares a cool, white marl terroir. 94 points Charles Curtis MW, DECANTER