Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2023

It seems a gross understatement to say that Tolpuddle has been in fine form as of late, but they have knocked it out the park again with this release from the cooler '23 vintage. The palest of straw in the glass, the aromas crisp and filigreed. Citrus, white peach and nectarine cut with glorious wisps of struck match and flinty complexity. Grilled hazelnuts, deftly-judged vanillin oak, lardo, white flowers, crushed riverstone, clotted cream and sea spray. The wine envelops the imbiber; flavours precise and pure with an umami-rich, mineral cadence, dreamy texture and daubs of spiced oatmeal, grilled peaches and flint. The finish is sustained, the only thing unresolved the need for another (larger?) bottle. An outstanding Australian chardonnay. 98 points and Special Value Wine  ★ Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion

The 2022 vintage will be a very hard act to follow, I tell myself, as I brace for disappointment. And then it hits like a vampire smelling its prey, pupils dilate and I am utterly captivated. Perfectly ripe lemons, peach sorbet and fresh linen billowing on the hills hoist. Whipped meringue cream, honeysuckle and bee pollen. Oak? What oak, yes it is there, with arches of cinnamon, fresh sawdust and hazelnut praline. But the fruit, oh the fruit reins supreme! It tickles the corners of your palate just where it should. Provides ample natural acidity and clean young almond milk creaminess on the finish. There is shale and river stone and the under current of not quite fathomable things, all at work to make you beg for another glass. With two wines that are so totally convincing, the magic of the Tolpuddle vineyard is real. Drink with prawn Har Gow dumplings and die happy.  98 points - Shanteh Wale, Wine Pilot