Louis Roederer Brut Nature Blanc Champagne 2018

Roederer's 2018 Brut Nature Blanc is stellar. That is evident from the very first taste. There is something different about the 2018, a level of dimension and complexity that supersedes anything Roederer has achieved with this cuvée in previous releasees. Much of that comes down to changes in élevage. Early vintages were made using a similar approach as with the other Roederer Champagnes. Wines were taken off the lees in December and then bottled around March/April. That resulted in Brut Natures that were a bit austere in feel. For the 2018, Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon opted to extend time on lees until spring, while also doing some stirring during that time to build texture, and then bottling in June, almost as if he was making a still wine. Bottling was done with 5/5.5 atmospheres of pressure, a bit less than for most Champagnes, which softens the mousse. But these are technical details. Where the 2018 truly shines in tasting. White flowers, lemon peel, chalk, slate and mint all race across the palate. This is Brut Nature, so bottled with no dosage, but that is not as evident here as it has been in previous editions, where the wine has at times felt a bit stark, no pun intended. The 2018 is a field blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier, picked the same day and co-fermented. This is the first vintage that includes a tiny amount of Pinot Blanc (1%), which presages future vintages where the field blend will include Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Pinot Gris as well. The 2018 is the best Brut Nature yet. I loved it. 95 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous

The 2018 Champagne Starck Brut Nature exhibits notes of lemon and citrus oils, but the stone fruit has a silkiness, not the tannic side you sometimes see. It also has hints of savory toast, but it remains very elegant. This 2018 is the first vintage that included a small amount of Pinot Blanc to add more depth to the mid-palate. Medium to full-bodied, it has a fleshy texture without being too bitter. With the extended time on lees, the Pinot Blanc is almost more perceptible in the blend - and if it isn't now, it will be - because it complements the style with that ideal, almost aesthetic almond or fresh hazelnut character. It brings an oily, not overly fleshy quality, and none of the oxidative side you sometimes get from Pinot Blanc. 95 points Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com