Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle No 23 Champagne NV 1500ML

Dried lemons, salted almonds, oyster shells, croissants, iodine, baked apples, spices and some ginger notes. White pepper, too. Vibrant and fresh, with a distinct saline edge. I like the subtle spice character. So much subtle power and tension. 58% chardonnay and 42% pinot noir, from 2006, 2004 and 2002. 14 years on the lees, three or four more than the normal bottle release. Only available in magnum. 99PTS James Suckling

Deep straw. Even immediately on opening the room was full of the aroma of a beautifully balanced, vital champagne with lots of age but no heaviness. There's a certain amount of richness but the richness of age, and it's clear that Chardonnay is the dominant ingredient. Really zingy nose with a tiny, almost invisible, bead that is refreshing without being remotely aggressive. There is some sensation of confit lemons (including a hint of saltiness) and this is really very, very lively. But the most obvious quality of this wine is its incredible persistence. It deserves so much attention. 19.5/20 Jancis Robinson