Bass Phillip Depuis Pinot Noir 2023

Vigneron Jean-Marie Fourrier destems pinot at his Burgundian domaine and at Bass Phillip, in order to preserve flavour and freshness. Not surprising given he was a protégé of the late, great Henri Jayer, who did the same. So, here it is – Depuis 23, which means 'since' in French (as in this style started in ‘23). Fermented with 100% whole bunches and aged in French oak, 50% new, for 14 months. Given all that, weaker sites would produce something weedy and astringent. Not this. Sure, it’s stemmy with bitter herbs, but it’s also superbly integrated because at its heart is excellent fruit, all sweet and tangy. A little smokiness comes through, aniseed, almost pastis-like, umami/Vegemite and oak spices with raw silk tannins sashaying across the fuller-bodied palate. There’s a density and richness but it’s not weighty. Whole-bunch junkies will be stoked. Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion