Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022

This is the yin to the Violet Hour’s yang, coming off red/brown clay over limestone from two blocks, planted 1960 and ’90 (the Violet Hour is mainly sandy soils). Open canopies lead to ‘ripe’ stems, with 100% whole- bunch ferments employed; 15 months' seasoned French oak. Dark and brooding, though not heavy, rippling with dark fruits, dried cherry, olive, blackstrap licorice, thyme, toasted rye, coal dust, anise, clove, white pepper … a swell of dark red cherry and sour plum enlivening the palate. This may be more darkly wrought than the Violet Hour, but it’s not heavy, with a slinky suppleness of texture and assertive natural tannin. Truly exceptional. Marcus Ellis for James Halliday